Day 13 Tuesday 11th December – Eboli to Muraglione near Pertoza

We had torrential rain with thunder and lightning during the night. We had a torch on standby for an electricity failure but didn’t need it. By the time we awoke the rain had stopped but nevertheless the stoker decided that if it started again she was staying put.

We rolled out onto very wet roads. Fortunately the sometimes over exuberant Italian drivers seemed used to it. The plan today was to follow the old main road bypassed by an autostrada. This is not always a good idea where motorways are toll roads. Those who do not want to pay or risk dodgy vehicles on the motorway can make the old road busy. UK motorists often conveniently forget about tolls when comparing UK motoring costs with those in mainland Europe.

Our route took us into Eboli town centre which was busy, and the busy traffic stayed with us for some time. The road surface however was good and we made good progress.

Then we started a steady climb. It is our policy, based on laziness, to get fit for these rides during the first week or two. It is a bit like training on the job. Climbing in a lowish gear is easy and pleasant when one is fit. So we were finding it hard work.

Somehow we were suddenly in the mountains. The scenery is lovely with high north faces already powdered by snow. To make things even harder it started to rain though putting waterproofs on stopped it.

We had our first picnic lunch on the summit of our climb at 488 metres. It was too cold to sit for long but we felt we were cycle touring at last.

On the descent, which was not devoid of the odd climb, the management got away with over 60kph without the stoker noticing. Unfortunately there are few smooth roads like this left in the UK which are pleasant by bike.

Just before reaching what was planned as the final 5km climb of the day the stoker spotted a very pleasant roadside albergo. We checked in, showered and crashed out.

The hotel phoned us for dinner. There are only seven rooms and a huge dining room. When we went down it was full of men working on the A3 autostrada. It was all very noisy, friendly and Italian. Before the meal ended we, yes we, were singing White Christmas with the owners’ grandchildren. They learn languages here at primary school.

Day 14 Wednesday 12th December – at Muraglione near Pertoza

We won Connect2 today. It calls for a special bottle of wine for us and lots of thankyous to all those who voted.

We like it here and there are caves to explore nearby so we decided to stay another night. After a late breakfast we walked to the entrance to the grotto. The car and coach park were completely empty but the ticket office was open. We paid and had our own private guide for our 11am tour.

It is a long time since either of us have been to the caves in Cheddar Gorge but these are similar as far as we remember. The public can go 800 metres into the mountain and there are concrete paths and lots of coloured lights. Unlike Cheddar the access is by boat and it is a great surprise to come out of an exit high above the entrance. It was altogether a very enjoyable experience, all the better for there being just the two of us.

In the afternoon we went for a walk on the very minor roads in the mountains. As we got higher the views were only spoilt by the autostrada under construction. A latter day Brunel must be enjoying the challenge of tunnels and bridges. Shame that the rest of the EC is most likely paying and the mountains are being ruined. We are also confused but may never know the answer. The A3 autostrada is shown as completed on our 1999 map but it clearly has some way to go.

Day 15 Thursday 13th December – Muraglione near Pertoza to Tusciano

Having experienced at first hand the gradients of the minor roads hereabouts we abandoned the planned route. This would have taken us cross country and looked fine on Google Earth before we left Weymouth. There is a limit to the gradients even the management is prepared to tackle with the loaded tandem.

We think we may have solved two mysteries. We could not understand the Italian answers even on the assumption that they could understand our questions. The mysteries were both related to the motorway. Why was it apparently still being built and why did the workers not come to dinner last night?

Once we were high enough we could see that there was traffic flowing on the motorway. It would seem that work had stopped and traffic was allowed. This would probably benefit us. The main road we were using, busy yesterday, was very quiet today. We presume that the motorway, or at least some of it, did exist in 1999 and that our fellow diners had just finished some roadworks.

Soon we turned off onto an old main road near to the west east motorway. There was hardly any traffic at all though neither has there been much road maintenance for several years. Bumps and cracks have to be watched for or the stoker gives the management what for.

The mountain scenery is again spectacular though this early in the trip we are not ready for the rigours of mountain riding. There are hilltop towns perched on peaks that look totally inaccessible. Some of the old ones are exactly the same colour as the mountainside. We drew them to each other’s attention, getting to them would require a day long raid of which we are probably incapable.

We also feel that we should say something about the cold though we expect no sympathy. It is strange, we are both cycling in fleeces and yet our hands are not cold. We eat picnic lunches though could have been warmer. In the evenings the hotels feel very cold and are just not properly equipped for winter by our standards. In future we will try not to venture high up, staying in warmer lower places.

The ride was of course almost all up and our total ascent was 816 metres. It was hard and we only stopped here because we came across a hotel. It came out of nowhere, we had had enough and so we checked in. The stoker, after a warm bath, was heard to say that her calf muscles were sore. Most of the management was sore and he was glad that we have all the time in world.

We brought down the emails and couldn’t wait to get all the great comments about Connect2. It is so nice to be positive when campaigning for better cycle facilities. It will keep us going for sometime.